Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has consistently been a dream destination for epicures, with inhabitants and tourists alike swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
Recently, UNESCO honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a select group of global cities and igniting hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this status, it becomes part of a worldwide network of more than four hundred metropolises across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "innovation as a key factor of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "demonstrates its profound culinary traditions and lively gastronomic culture," according to a spokesperson from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of seventy urban centers around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this historic city comes as no surprise to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO recognition, this cherished, lively, and eclectic city – the capital of India's biggest state – is now in the global gaze for what has always defined its soul: an profound passion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how should it be prepared' is a constant dialogue from waking up until going to bed in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its historic affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, perfected, and raised to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were hubs of culinary innovations, fusing Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were created. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was devised to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover securely closed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just showcases seasonal produce but also gives the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Almost on many street corners, there are small establishments and stalls – little-known treasures that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from the crack of dawn at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, offered in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a no-frills joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also presents special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is intricate and involved. The artisan whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible airy feel.
On crisp mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some but express concern that their younger generation are reluctant to learn the craft.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is believed, will motivate more people worldwide to discover these stories and travel to the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.
